{"id":2078,"date":"2025-10-03T11:08:53","date_gmt":"2025-10-03T11:08:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/facesjournal.com\/?p=2078"},"modified":"2025-10-03T11:08:53","modified_gmt":"2025-10-03T11:08:53","slug":"searching-for-treasure-on-the-hebridean-whisky-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/?p=2078","title":{"rendered":"Searching for Treasure on The Hebridean Whisky Trail"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In her first of her new weekly column, author and drinks writer Alice Lascelles hunts for a taste of local gold.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/09\/CopperStillsinwinterwithsnow1-min-300x200.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-post-image\" alt=\"rasaay distillery stills\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/div>\n<p>However many times I visit this part of the world, it always feels like an adventure, whether it\u2019s blowing a hooley or the seas are at peace, all a-glitter under blue skies.<\/p>\n<p>These isles have produced some of whisky\u2019s biggest names \u2013 Ardbeg, Port Ellen, Bowmore, Lagavulin, Laphroaig. More recently, they\u2019ve also witnessed the emergence of an exciting new generation of distilleries, which have banded together to create the Hebridean Whisky Trail.<\/p>\n<p>This self-guided tour takes in Torabhaig (and Talisker) on Skye, the namesake distilleries of Raasay and Harris, plus the tiny Isle of Tiree distillery, and Benbecula and North Uist distilleries on Uist. <\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m always up for a bit of island hopping so recently I paid a visit to three of them. First stop was Torabhaig on the shores of Skye\u2019s expansive Sound of Sleat \u2013 a sea loch edged by shingly beaches, sheep-filled hills and distant mountain ranges. The approach to this traditional-style distillery is stunning \u2013\u00a0its white-washed walls, pillar-box red doors and elegant pagoda popped against the blue. On the headland beyond, the ruins of Knock Castle, a medieval fort, are also visible. <\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/10\/P6303134-min-2560x1920.jpg\" alt=\"torabhaig distillery\" class=\"wp-image-249204\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> Torabhaig sits on the Sound of Sleat \/ \u00a9Torabhaig<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Torabhaig describes its house style as \u2018elegantly rugged; an elegant interpretation of heavy peat.\u2019 It marries tarry, maritime smoke with fresh citrus notes and hints of honey and vanilla.<\/p>\n<p>Torabhaig\u2019s first permanent whisky \u2013\u00a0a 10 year old \u2013\u00a0won\u2019t be released until 2028. But in the meantime, master distiller Neil Mathieson is documenting its evolution with the \u2018Legacy Series,\u2019 a collection of limited-edition malts that have become much sought-after among whisky afficionados (see below for the latest). Once a year, the distillery also gives one of the distilling team free reign to create their own recipe, which is released as part of the Torabhaig Journeyman series.<\/p>\n<p>We spend the night at nearby Kinloch Lodge, a handsome waterside hotel dripping in history. A former hunting lodge, it\u2019s the ancestral home of one of Scotland\u2019s most storied clans, the Macdonalds, some of whom still run it today. It\u2019s all crackling fires, stags\u2019 heads on the walls and drawing rooms full of family portraits. The well-stocked whisky bar is also excellent.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/10\/Kinloch-bookimage-min-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"kinloch lodge scotland \" class=\"wp-image-249206\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Kinloch Lodge is the ancestral seat of of the Macdonald clan \/ \u00a9Kinloch Lodge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We set off early the next morning, to catch the ferry to Raasay \u2013\u00a0a drive which takes us across sweeping moors and past the foot of the menacing Cuillin mountain range.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s just a 20-minute ferry hop to Raasay, but it feels like another world; the tiny isle\u2019s gentle slopes and lush woodlands are downright cosy compared to what we\u2019ve just left behind. The compact distillery sits a short walk up the hill, looking back across the water at the spent volcanoes of Skye. I\u2019m told they often spot seals, dolphins, orcas and even minke whales from the distillery. The only sign of wildlife on my visit, though, is one very contented Highland cow.<\/p>\n<p>There\u2019s no history of whisky-making on Raasay \u2013\u00a0no legal one, anyway. So, co-founder and master distiller Alasdair Day was free to invent his own style. \u201cI wanted it to be Hebridean,\u201d he says, \u201cwhich to me means lightly peated with dark fruits.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The Raasay recipe is complex; they distil both peated and unpeated malt separately, and then age in three types of casks. Ex rye-whiskey casks provide peppery base notes, chinquapin oak casks add a maple syrup sweetness, and ex red-wine casks from Bordeaux add structural tannin and damson\/plum characters. The tactile bottle is imprinted with rocks and fossils \u2013\u00a0a nod to Raasay\u2019s unique geology.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/09\/FerryCrossingwithGlamaigBraesandCullinintheDistance-min-2560x1438.jpg\" alt=\"islwe of rasaay distillery\" class=\"wp-image-249165\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Raasay is a short ferry journey from Skye \/ \u00a9Isle of Raasay Distillery <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Raasay\u2019s whisky is delicious. And it\u2019s also a wonderful place to stay \u2013 in fact it\u2019s the only place in Scotland where you can stay overnight in an actual <em>working <\/em>distillery. The distillery\u2019s six-bedroom boutique bed and breakfast, Borodale House, has portholes which look straight into the still room where the whisky is made.<\/p>\n<p>There are also five Scandi-style \u2018bothies,\u2019 where you can enjoy the panoramic views of Skye from the comfort of your bed. There\u2019s a convivial bar and restaurant, too, for holing up in when the weather inevitably goes sideways.<\/p>\n<p>The next day we head off to the Isle of Harris, which lies further out, to the north-west. This involves another ferry, this time from Uig in the very north of Skye. Fortified by bacon sandwiches and strong cups of tea, we make our way up on deck, and watch as Harris\u2019s shattered coastline emerges, slightly spookily, from the horizon.<\/p>\n<p>We disembark in a rocky harbor, among hills dotted with white cottages and gorse, and almost immediately come face-to-face with the distillery \u2013\u00a0a building with a pointy roof and a spartan simplicity reminiscent of a chapel.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/09\/Shonalandscape2-min-2560x1654.jpg\" alt=\"shona mcleod harris distillery\" class=\"wp-image-249167\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Isle of Harris master distiller Shona Macleod \/ \u00a9Isle of Harris Distillery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The distillery was founded with the aim of making whisky but also creating jobs. \u201cI used to play on the shore here,\u201d says whisky blender Shona Macleod. \u201cNever in my wildest dreams would I have thought I\u2019d be making whisky one day.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Harris launched in 2015 with a sugar kelp-laced gin \u2013 which instantly made a splash. This distillery\u2019s flagship whisky is The Hearach (Gaelic for \u2018person from Harris\u2019), a honeyed single malt with attractive meadow-y notes and an ethereal, ashy smoke (also available in a more sherried edition).<\/p>\n<p>Shona takes us on a drive around Harris \u2013\u00a0an isle of two very different, but equally bewitching, parts. The east coast is all gnarly rock outcrops, interspersed with little lochs. It feels secret, almost out-of-time. I\u2019m not surprised to learn that some scenes from 2001 <em>Space Odyssey<\/em> were filmed here.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/09\/IsleofHarrisDistillery1-min-2560x1707.jpg\" alt=\"isle of harris distillery\" class=\"wp-image-249166\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The distillery sits on the island&#8217;s south-east coast \/ \u00a9Isle of Harris Distillery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Just a mile away, on the west coast, the landscape completely opens up into stunning white-sand beaches lapped by crystalline blue waters worthy of the tropics. The air is more humid; sheep graze sleepily amidst marshes and heather. \u201cThere are sapphires in this geology,\u201d says Macleod in her musical Harris accent. \u00a0<\/p>\n<p>We take a freezing plunge in the Atlantic and toast our efforts with ice-cold Harris gin martinis on the beach, before driving back for a dinner of giant pink langoustines with the Harris distillery team. \u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The next morning, we take a ferry back to the mainland, landing at the magnificent port of Ullapool. And then set off for the east coast, in search of another exciting young distillery \u2013 but that\u2019s another story.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Three Hebridean Whiskies to Taste<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Torabhaig Sound of Sleat Batch Strength<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/10\/Torabhaig_SoundofSleatBatchStrength2-min-2560x1707.jpg\" alt=\"torabhaig whisky skye\" class=\"wp-image-249205\" \/><\/figure>\n<p>The latest in the distillery\u2019s sought-after Legacy Series showcases Torabhaig\u2019s maritime style at its most intense. Enjoy with a drop of water. <em>60.2% abv. \u00a375 (approx. $100), <a href=\"https:\/\/torabhaig.com\/collections\/the-legacy-series\/products\/torabhaig-legacy-series-ch-4-sound-of-sleat-batch-strength\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">torabhaig.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>Isle of Raasay D\u00f9n Cana Sherry Quarter Cask Release, Third Edition<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/09\/RaasayDunCana78-min-e1759479936331.jpg\" alt=\"raasay dun cana\" class=\"wp-image-249168\" \/><\/figure>\n<p>A stint in smaller-than-average Oloroso and PX sherry casks dials up the chewy dried fruit notes and spice in this softly smoky malt. <em>52% abv. \u00a385 (approx. $114), <a href=\"https:\/\/raasaydistillery.com\/raasay-whisky\/dun-cana-sherry-quarter-cask\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">raasaydistillery.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>Isle of Harris Distillery The Hearach, Decade Edition<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/elitetraveler.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2025\/10\/Hearachbottle1-min-2560x1707.jpg\" alt=\"isle of harris whisky hearach bottle\" class=\"wp-image-249170\" \/><\/figure>\n<p>A collectable anniversary edition of The Hearach made, uniquely, with peat hand-cut from the Isle of Harris \u2013 just 2,357\u00a0bottles have been released. <em>46% abv. \u00a375.00 (approx. $100), <a href=\"https:\/\/harrisdistillery.com\/products\/the-hearach-decade-edition?srsltid=AfmBOooAvmhEmrRqZDeNCby2j-r089s9n7cAv5ahTcDAsC04IZ0VAKg3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">harrisdistillery.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In her first of her new weekly column, author and drinks writer Alice Lascelles hunts for a taste of local gold.\u00a0 However many times I visit this part of the world, it always feels like an adventure, whether it\u2019s blowing a hooley or the seas are at peace, all a-glitter under blue skies. These isles [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2079,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","beyondwords_generate_audio":"","beyondwords_project_id":"","beyondwords_content_id":"","beyondwords_preview_token":"","beyondwords_player_content":"","beyondwords_player_style":"","beyondwords_language_id":"","beyondwords_title_voice_id":"","beyondwords_body_voice_id":"","beyondwords_summary_voice_id":"","beyondwords_error_message":"","beyondwords_disabled":"","beyondwords_delete_content":"","beyondwords_podcast_id":"","beyondwords_hash":"","publish_post_to_speechkit":"","speechkit_hash":"","speechkit_generate_audio":"","speechkit_project_id":"","speechkit_podcast_id":"","speechkit_error_message":"","speechkit_disabled":"","speechkit_access_key":"","speechkit_error":"","speechkit_info":"","speechkit_response":"","speechkit_retries":"","speechkit_status":"","speechkit_updated_at":"","_speechkit_link":"","_speechkit_text":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2078","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2078","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2078"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2078\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2079"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2078"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2078"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2078"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}