{"id":4408,"date":"2026-06-19T10:08:05","date_gmt":"2026-06-19T10:08:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/?p=4408"},"modified":"2026-06-19T10:08:05","modified_gmt":"2026-06-19T10:08:05","slug":"kilts-wide-trousers-and-a-touch-of-punk-what-men-will-wear-next-according-to-pitti-uomo-2026","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/?p=4408","title":{"rendered":"Kilts, Wide Trousers, and a Touch of Punk: What Men Will Wear Next, According to Pitti Uomo 2026"},"content":{"rendered":"

The mood might have been subdued, but the concepts were not. Simone Rocha and Kei Ninomiya proved that menswear’s most interesting ideas are still emerging in Florence.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Pitti Uomo<\/a>, the world\u2019s biggest menswear salon, is the twice-yearly bellwether\u00a0of how men will be dressing in six\u00a0months’ time, and judging from the latest edition, their wardrobe will be a battle between the artisan and\u00a0avant-garde.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

Though perhaps not a vintage Pitti, after visiting three key runway shows, dozens of presentations, and scores of stands,\u00a0a number of\u00a0key trends did emerge.\u00a0On this showing,\u00a0next spring tailoring will be sparse, minimalist even. Fabrics will be lighter than ever.\u00a0Colors\u00a0will be muted, muddied even. Shirts, on the contrary, should be rather fantastical. And believe it or not, there is a revival of the kilt.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

The fair\u2019s 110th three-day edition ended Thursday with the debut menswear show by Irish star designer Simone Rocha on the stage of Teatro\u00a0della\u00a0Pergola. The 2024 British Fashion Designer of the Year winner, Rocha manages to savvily combine punky\u00a0romanticism, cool historicism, and a dash of transgressive style.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Simone Rocha spring 2027 menswear collection \u00a9Pitti Uomo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not every\u00a0man will wear her lace-trimmed doily\u00a0bloomers, pearl-trimmed ballet slippers, or naughty priest soutanes. But if they have enough\u00a0panache\u00a0they will look sensational in Rocha\u2019s\u00a0pearl-button Venetian wool double-breasted jackets; her panelled rugby jerseys with wingtip collars; her soft\u00a0nappa\u00a0cream-hued leather dusters or her sensational jockey racing tops in Clongowes Wood College purple and white stripes.\u00a0Her silk multi-pleated pants are must-haves.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

By blending her Irish and Chinese heritage with Elizabethan detailing and Victorian codes, Rocha has built a global business since opening her first store in Mount Street<\/a> in London<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Simone Rocha spring 2027 menswear collection \u00a9Pitti Uomo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Voluminous trousers will be all the rage next summer.\u00a0At Kiton New Texture, the experimental range of the Naples-based tailor, they were seen in wide double-pleat denim or coppery cotton pants paired with slim, perfectly cut double-breasted jackets with a soft Neapolitan shoulder. So minimal\u00a0were they\u00a0that none had a breast pocket.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

Pitti 110 happens at a tricky moment for Italian fashion. Tepid Chinese luxury consumption and tensions in the Middle East brought Italian menswear sales down 2.2% in 2025, even if exports did rise 0.1 percent to \u20ac8.8bn.\u202f\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cToday, men really do change their clothes and wardrobe frequently,» explained Antonio De Matteis, Kiton’s managing director and president of Pitti, «that has widened\u00a0our\u00a0market, and is the motor which will drive our sector.\u201d \u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

During the fair, Florence became an exercise in\u00a0storytelling, like the Negroni-fuelled\u00a0cocktail\u00a0party\u00a0for Gucci Storia, a brilliant history of the brand inside Palazzo Gucci in the city\u2019s historic main square, Piazza\u00a0della\u00a0Signoria.\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Kiton New Texture \u00a9Pitti Uomo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Being a great designer requires a healthy ego, and no one could\u00a0accuse\u00a0Gucci\u2019s creative director, Demna, of false modesty. One room featured three huge\u00a0brand-new\u00a0Renaissance-style tapestries featuring a history of the Gucci clan. One showed the Georgian-born designer finishing a fitting in his atelier, poised like Raffaello or Michelangelo.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

Two hundred yards away, Sebago staged an 80th anniversary boat tour party on the banks of the Arno in the city\u2019s rowing club. It featured a\u00a0motorboat\u00a0in the shape of a classic Sebago red-white-and-blue docksider loafer.\u00a0The boat shoe turned shoe boat. It\u2019s one\u00a0of four brands \u2013 along with California swimwear label Sundek, Pennsylvania\u2019s Woolrich, and France\u2019s K-Way \u2013 that are smartly being revived by Basic Net, owned by the extraordinarily entrepreneurial Turin-based\u00a0Boglione\u00a0family.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

The fair celebrated one of Florence\u2019s\u00a0favorite\u00a0sons, Emilio Pucci,\u00a0with a discussion animated by veteran fashion editor and expert Suzy Menkes on The Astonishing Odyssey of a Fashion Icon<\/em>,\u00a0a new biography by Terence Ward and Idanna Pucci. A World War Two bomber pilot, Marchese Pucci, led the Italian fashion renaissance of the 1950s by founding a brand\u00a0\u2014\u00a0in one of whose dresses Marilyn Monroe<\/a> was interred\u00a0\u2014\u00a0which is today a key marque of the LVMH luxury conglomerate.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

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DSM Kei Ninomiya \u00a9Pitti Uomo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Featuring spring\/summer 2027 collections, 740 brands displayed their latest ideas at Pitti. Curiously,\u00a0in the midst of\u00a0a heatwave with temperatures hitting 38 degrees, some of the smartest shirts came from Antik Batik, where designer Gabriella Cortese showed beguilingly soft and breathable khadi tops. Woven on old wooden hand looms from Calcutta, khadi is the fabric Mahatma Gandhi urged all Indians to\u00a0wear and use to\u00a0become more self-sufficient and escape the\u00a0dominance\u00a0of British textiles.\u202f<\/p>\n

In fashion, as in life, sometimes it’s all about timing. Such was the case at DSM Kei Ninomiya, the debut show of the first brand launched by Dover Street Market. Fashion\u00a0insiders’\u00a0favorite\u00a0retailer, DSM is the brainchild of Japanese <\/a>design legend Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Gar\u00e7ons fame.\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

Presented inside\u00a0Sant\u2019Orsola,\u00a0currently a building site, it\u2019s a massive 14th-century monastery famed for being the final resting place of Lisa Gherardini, the presumed\u00a0model of Leonardo\u00a0Da\u00a0Vinci\u2019s Mona Lisa<\/em>. Instead of Renaissance beauties, Japan-born Ninomiya rode the punk revival and presented some sensational posh-punk fantasies \u2013 in\u00a0mash-ups\u00a0of plaid blazers and blousons,\u00a0grommeted kilts and chain-covered biker jackets.\u202f\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

See also: Max Mara Marks 75 Years with Cruise Collection, Exhibition, and Boutique in Shanghai<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

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DSM Kei Ninomiya \u00a9Pitti Uomo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A pedant would say: grazie <\/em>Vivienne Westwood. But that would be unfair. This was instead the latest expression of fashion\u2019s everlasting admiration and demolition of Scottish baronial style.\u202f\u00a0\u202f\u00a0<\/p>\n

The\u00a0collection\u00a0culminated with giant mohawks and Liberty Spike haircuts. Though unlike the\u00a0punk\u00a0versions, these sprouted real flowers at the top of the spikes.\u202fAnd while few\u00a0of the\u00a0billionaires and hedge fund execs among us will ever sport a mohawk, maybe we should\u00a0consider a kilt. It is, after all,\u00a0most definitely fashion\u2019s greatest icebreaker.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u202f\u00a0<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The mood might have been subdued, but the concepts were not. Simone Rocha and Kei Ninomiya proved that menswear’s most interesting ideas are still emerging in Florence.\u00a0 Pitti Uomo, the world\u2019s biggest menswear salon, is the twice-yearly bellwether\u00a0of how men will be dressing in six\u00a0months’ time, and judging from the latest edition, their wardrobe will […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4409,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","beyondwords_generate_audio":"","beyondwords_project_id":"","beyondwords_content_id":"","beyondwords_preview_token":"","beyondwords_player_content":"","beyondwords_player_style":"","beyondwords_language_id":"","beyondwords_title_voice_id":"","beyondwords_body_voice_id":"","beyondwords_summary_voice_id":"","beyondwords_error_message":"","beyondwords_disabled":"","beyondwords_delete_content":"","beyondwords_podcast_id":"","beyondwords_hash":"","publish_post_to_speechkit":"","speechkit_hash":"","speechkit_generate_audio":"","speechkit_project_id":"","speechkit_podcast_id":"","speechkit_error_message":"","speechkit_disabled":"","speechkit_access_key":"","speechkit_error":"","speechkit_info":"","speechkit_response":"","speechkit_retries":"","speechkit_status":"","speechkit_updated_at":"","_speechkit_link":"","_speechkit_text":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4408","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4408","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4408"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4408\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4409"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4408"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4408"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/facesjournal.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4408"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}