Oniku Karyu holds a Michelin star in Tokyo – now, its chef is taking on Miami.
Wagyu has quietly, confidently risen through the ranks to take its status as one of the world’s most coveted foods, counting only the likes of caviar, foie gras, and truffle as its contemporaries.
So then, being able to open a restaurant on the premise that you are the only one in the US serving wagyu from one Japanese cattle ranch comes with a certain amount of gravitas. A second offshoot of Tokyo’s Michelin-starred Oniku Karyu by chef Haruka Katayanagi, Karyu opened in Miami’s Design District last month, and in doing so became the only restaurant in the country that serves wagyu from Ueda Chikusan, a family-run farm in Japan’s mountainous Hyōgo Prefecture.
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Ueda Chikusan exclusively rears Tajimaguro cattle, known for its intense marbling, its sweet flavor, and its melt-in-the-mouth softness. With a highly restricted number of animals raised each month, Tajimaguro is considered one of the rarest, most premium wagyu around the world.
The exclusivity of the meat is honored in Karyu’s design. Just 12 spaces are available per sitting (6pm and and 9pm, Wednesday through Sunday), with each seat angled around an open kitchen, primed for views of the master chefs at work. The head chef is Haruka Katayanagi protege Hiroshi Morito, who has relocated from Tokyo to Miami to uphold his teacher’s vision. Throughout the evening, Morito and his team craft course after course, adhering to the traditional kaiseki conventions – a multi-course meal of small, artistic dishes that both celebrate ingredients and showcase skill.
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Beef is interspersed throughout. It’s infused into the delicate opening broth, wedged between spongy bread for the cutlet sandwich, wrapped up in a lettuce ‘taco,’ and served on top of white rice and raw egg. Vegans and vegetarians should, in no uncertain terms, consider making a reservation elsewhere.
“Every dish tells a story,” says chef Katayanagi. “Wagyu is not just about richness – it’s about spirit. It carries the patience of the farmer, the precision of the butcher, and the sensitivity of the chef. Bringing that philosophy to Miami allows us to share the true heart of Japanese cuisine.”
In an industry that is – quite responsibly – moving away from imported ingredients and favoring local availability, Karyu is seemingly laughing at such conventions with a menu that honors Japan seasonality. Menus will change regularly to reflect this, highlighting international ingredients such as Japanese rice and French gruyere cheese. The drinks list naturally leans heavily toward Japan and is sake heavy.
Designed to echo the feel of the original Oniku Karyu in Tokyo, Karyu’s look is modest and minimal. Layers of linen curtain separate the entrance and the petite dining room, creating a degree of separateness between ‘out there’ and ‘in here.’ Inside, Japanese craft is duly honored, from the noren screens that conceal the grill to the authentic raku ceramics.
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